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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.